I have been fielding a few questions regarding wheather the cutter has sufficient clearance on the front leading edge. This diagram should help clarify the profile of the cutter:
Hi Chris, another question; when you fit your wheel up to your wooden support on your mandrel do you have to have the wood at the full diameter of the wheel? I'm thinking your wheel needs to be slightly bigger to allow the cut brass to exit instead of bed in to the wood causing alsorts of pressures?
Hi Craig - the idea of the wheel is that the teeth do not bend due to the pressures of the single point cutter. So infact, the idea is that the wooden support it same size or ever so slightly bigger! That is the theory behind why it is there but that being said I know totally what you are saying. I`ve been in conversation with a few horologists and apparently a stronger support should be used like aluminium. The ally won`t allow the brass to bend into it and the cutter will have to cut the brass and the ally but it will be a clean cut....hopefully. Thanks for your questions, it is nice to know someone is reading!
Hi Chris, another question; when you fit your wheel up to your wooden support on your mandrel do you have to have the wood at the full diameter of the wheel? I'm thinking your wheel needs to be slightly bigger to allow the cut brass to exit instead of bed in to the wood causing alsorts of pressures?
ReplyDeleteHi Craig - the idea of the wheel is that the teeth do not bend due to the pressures of the single point cutter. So infact, the idea is that the wooden support it same size or ever so slightly bigger! That is the theory behind why it is there but that being said I know totally what you are saying. I`ve been in conversation with a few horologists and apparently a stronger support should be used like aluminium. The ally won`t allow the brass to bend into it and the cutter will have to cut the brass and the ally but it will be a clean cut....hopefully. Thanks for your questions, it is nice to know someone is reading!
ReplyDelete